By: Sofia Julaton

To gaze: to look steadily and intently at something, especially at that which excites admiration, curiosity, or interest. That is the textbook definition of the verb that can be used interchangeably with “to stare” or “to look”. Other synonyms include “leer” or “ogle,” which is much more fitting when referring to the male gaze. The concept refers to the projection of patriarchal fantasies that are pushed upon the female figure — the ever-present warden that dictates what a woman should wear, and who she should dress up for. The male gaze is rooted in the stereotype of “men act and women appear”. That is, men partake in the intentional and active process of looking, while women are confined to the passive process of simply being seen. But like the majority of stereotypes out there, this sentiment couldn’t ring further from the truth, and women all around the world are reclaiming the gaze as their own. The foundation of the female gaze highlights women’s agency and their perspective — one that doesn’t objectify or sexualize their experiences. The female gaze strives to break down the boxes that the patriarchy has tried to enforce by reminding the world that you may be looking, but they are fully capable of looking back.

As a visual art, fashion revolves around being seen and looked at: fashion shows are a form of performance, mannequins are displayed in store windows, and designers showcase their new pieces at their ateliers. The fashion industry thrives on being watched; on being the receiving end of the gaze. But it is for this reason that fashion is such a great form of self-expression, especially when fighting against the socially conditioned beliefs of dressing for the male eye. However, similarly to the male gaze, the fashion industry has often overlooked and underestimated petite women, especially in its portrayal and treatment of their bodies and proportions. In a world that caters to the desires of a typical heterosexual man, it can be difficult to find sartorial choices that align with your personal style — especially when those options are limited, and when every form of media at your disposal is telling you to seek male approval. Although sight is one of the senses that is at the forefront of the fashion industry, that doesn’t mean the other four senses merely disappear into the background. In fact, it can be said that the tactile experience plays a crucial role in the fashion industry, particularly in addition to its visual appeal.

Dressing for the female gaze means that the only approval you should be seeking is your own — it’s about what feels good rather than what looks good (according to patriarchal standards, that is). This is where the sensory aspect of fashion takes precedence over the visual, as women are prioritising personal taste over what is considered flattering. The focus is on the aesthetics, which allows for experimenting with different patterns and fabrics, even if they clash with one another. On the other hand, dressing for the male gaze typically involves form-fitting clothing, neutral tones, and short skirts and dresses — items that aim to accentuate the figure rather than emphasize it. It is important to note that dressing for the female gaze doesn’t mean the total alienation of these types of clothes, but rather, learning not to sacrifice your comfort and individuality in favor of someone else’s gratification. If that denim skirt from the summer of 2012 is what makes you feel powerful and confident, then you have every right to wear it. The difference between dressing for the female gaze and the male gaze lies in the wearer’s intent: is it for self-desire? Or male pleasure?

Self-expression and body inclusivity are at the heart of dressing for the female gaze, with the idea that there is no need to shrink yourself to wear what you want. This is a sentiment that, unfortunately, rings true for the vast majority of petite women out there, who tend to struggle with inclusivity in the fashion industry. Petite bodies are underestimated due to various misconceptions, which include: infantilization, the “shrink it and pink it” approach, and the belief that being petite automatically equals being slim. That’s why dressing for the female gaze is so important, especially to marginalized groups in this industry, because it allows women to stay true to themselves while also feeling empowered. Petite women shouldn’t have to be mischaracterized by advertisements that undermine their capabilities (like infantilization does), or deal with standard-sized clothing that is simply shortened, without considering the unique proportions of a petite frame (which the “shrink it and pink it” approach is guilty of). Women of all shapes and sizes deserve to express themselves through the medium of fashion and not be confined to a box that was established by a male-dominated industry.

It is important to remember that these fabricated rules and confinements don’t have to define you, and that clothing can be a great way to experiment and have fun with your wardrobe. Playing around with patterns and color palettes can even help highlight petite proportions: think high-waisted pants or vertical stripes for the office, or maybe a bold, printed midi skirt for a beach day. The power of the female gaze in the context of fashion is truly a remarkable one, and it acts as a reminder of female agency in a society that is trying to obscure it. As French filmmaker Agnes Varda once said: “The act of deciding to look, of deciding that the world is not defined by how people see me, but how I see them.” You may be the recipient of the gaze, but the only one that truly matters is your own. 

Sources of inspiration

This essay was informed by a range of readings on the female gaze and body inclusivity in fashion, including:

• “Dressing For The Female Gaze Versus The Male Gaze” - Strike Magazine
• "If Looks Could Kill ... The Art of the Female Gaze" - Matriarch
• "Why an Increasing Number of Women Are Saying They Dress for the Female Gaze" - Vogue Arabia
• “The Female Gaze: Why Women in Art Matter” - Medium